For a Kolkata winter, you don't need a heavy fleece hoodie. A 100% cotton French terry hoodie of around 230 GSM is warm enough for cool evenings and early mornings, and it breathes in our humid air so you don't feel sticky. Heavy fleece is made for genuinely cold places. In Kolkata it's usually too much.
Here's why, from a family that has been knitting and dyeing cotton in Kolkata since 1954.
What a Kolkata winter actually asks of a hoodie
Kolkata's winter is short and mild. There are a few weeks of nippy mornings and cool nights, and afternoons that can still feel warm. And it's humid all year round.
So a good Kolkata hoodie has two jobs:
- Keep you warm when it's cool, on a morning ride, an evening out, or a night with the fan still on.
- Not trap heat and sweat when the day warms up or you step indoors.
A heavy synthetic fleece does the first job well and the second job badly. That's the problem.
French terry vs fleece: what's the difference?
Both start life as a knitted fabric with loops on one side. What happens to those loops is the difference.
- French terry is smooth on the outside, with soft loops left as they are on the inside. The loops trap a light layer of warm air, but they also let air move and pull moisture away from your skin. You stay warm without going clammy.
- Fleece has those inside loops brushed or raised until they turn fluffy. That fluff traps much more heat. It's great in real cold, but in a humid city it can feel like wearing a blanket.
Brushing also changes how a fabric behaves. In our own experience, brushed cotton can react unpredictably with different detergents and shrink more one time and less the next. For an everyday hoodie in a city like ours, we prefer the more stable, unbrushed French terry.
Why 100% cotton, and not a cotton-poly blend
Most hoodies in the market are cotton-polyester blends. They look fine on day one. Then they start to pill, trap heat and feel synthetic against the skin.
Cotton is a natural fibre that breathes. In humid weather, that matters more than anything else. When you're buying, check the label: "100% cotton" on a hoodie is a good sign for Kolkata. A long list of synthetic fibres usually means more heat and more pilling.
On pilling, a tip from our production floor: those little balls that form where fabric rubs (under the arms, on the sides) come largely from yarn quality. Two hoodies at the same price can behave completely differently because one uses inferior yarn. Good yarn pills far less.
What GSM hoodie do you need?
GSM (grams per square metre) tells you how heavy, and roughly how warm, a fabric is. The right number depends entirely on where and how you'll wear it.
- Kolkata and similar mild, humid winters: around 230+ GSM French terry is the sweet spot. That's what we make our French terry hoodie in.
- Much colder places: you need something heavier and warmer, and honestly, a different garment altogether.
When customers ask us, we don't start with the GSM number. We start with the question: where will you wear it, and what for?
When we'd tell you not to buy our French terry hoodie
If you're buying for a winter in Kashmir or Delhi, I would not suggest our French terry hoodie. It's built for a Kolkata winter, and it's too light for that kind of cold.
Wearing it over a t-shirt will help, but be clear about why. That's physics, not the hoodie: the air trapped between two layers is a poor conductor of heat, so two layers keep you warmer than one. For a Delhi or Kashmir winter, you need a properly warm outer layer.
For Kolkata winters, though, it's exactly right. On a properly cold Kolkata night, the same physics works in your favour: wear it over a full-sleeve tee.
How to look after a cotton hoodie
Most hoodie problems (shrinking, twisting, fading, pilling) come down to how it's washed and dried. From what we've seen over the years:
- Machine washing is fine, on a gentle cycle. It's 100% cotton; you don't have to hand-wash it.
- Wash inside out, with similar colours. Never wash colours with whites.
- Never tumble dry. Heat is hard on cotton.
- Dry it in the sun, inside out. Sunshine dries cotton well, but strong sun can scorch colour on the outside (reds and browns suffer the most), so keep the inside facing out.
- Don't panic if a little dye comes out in the very first wash. That's excess dye from the dyeing process. If colour keeps coming out wash after wash, that's a real quality problem.
And be realistic: cotton is a natural fibre. With regular wear and washing, it will slowly age. Good yarn and good care just make that take much, much longer.
The P3 Pure Cotton French Terry Hoodie
We made the Pure Cotton French Terry Hoodie for exactly this kind of winter: 100% cotton French terry, 230+ GSM, no polyester. It has a clean, drawstring-free crossover hood and ribbed cuffs and hem, in three easy shades: Iron Gate (charcoal), Ocean Depth (deep navy) and Heather Grey.
If the size isn't right, tell us within 7 days of delivery and we'll exchange it free, with shipping paid both ways (unworn, tags on).
Frequently asked questions
Is a French terry hoodie warm enough for a Kolkata winter?
Yes. A 100% cotton French terry hoodie of around 230 GSM is warm enough for Kolkata's cool mornings and evenings, and breathable enough for its humidity. On colder nights, layer it over a full-sleeve tee.
Is French terry better than fleece?
It depends on the weather. French terry is lighter and more breathable, so it's better for mild, humid winters like Kolkata's. Fleece has brushed, fluffy loops that trap more heat, so it's better for genuinely cold places.
What GSM hoodie is best for winter in India?
It depends on where you live. For mild winters like Kolkata's, around 230+ GSM French terry is ideal. Colder regions need heavier, warmer fabrics.
Is a 100% cotton hoodie better than a cotton-polyester blend?
For humid weather, usually yes. Cotton breathes and feels natural on the skin. Blends tend to trap heat, pill and feel synthetic over time.
Can I machine wash a cotton hoodie?
Yes, on a gentle cycle, inside out, with similar colours. Never tumble dry it. Dry it in the sun, inside out.
Why do some hoodies pill so quickly?
Mostly because of yarn quality, plus rubbing and rough washing. Better yarn pills much less. Washing inside out and avoiding the dryer also help.
Is a French terry hoodie enough for a Delhi or Kashmir winter?
Not on its own. It's designed for mild winters like Kolkata's. Layering it over a tee helps, because the air between layers holds warmth, but for Delhi or Kashmir winters you need a properly warm outer layer.
